Our original 2015 story …

We didn’t have access to a narrowboat … but we sure did have bikes, and we were always up for an adventure! This is an incredibly simple idea and, with minimal organising, was easy to put together … in May 2015 we executed our plan, and it turned out to be a phenomenal success.

History ~ The Leeds & Liverpool Canal was the last of the three trans-Pennine canals. It has a mainline of 127.25 miles, making it easily the longest canal built by one company in the country! It links the Aire & Calder Navigation at Leeds with the northwest seaport of Liverpool, forming a through route between the North Sea and the Irish Sea. Although the last 1/4 mile (Liverpool end) has been filled in, you can still complete the route via Eldonian Village.

Cycling The Route ~ The conventional way to travel by bike is to go west to east to take advantage of probable prevailing winds … so let’s defy logic and tackle it the other way. I reckon that, although canals can get rather exposed to headwinds, the latter stage of the route is the gentler. It also seems more natural (for us) to head westwards towards ‘home’.

You can cycle the towpath along the whole canal; the only exceptions are two tunnels at Foulridge and Gannow. Navigation is not an issue, and there aren’t any major junctions to confuse you (it is well signposted anyway). That said, you’ll need a set of 1:50000 maps to pinpoint your position on the daily section you are travelling, to locate facilities, and follow necessary diversions due to unexpected towpath maintenance.

Track Elevation ~

 

To get to and from our start/finish points, we used the train … taking us into and out of the mighty cities of Manchester, Leeds and Liverpool.

DAY ONE ~ Leeds to Earby = 42.6 miles / 2100 feet ascent / 1700 feet descent / 5:20 hours:mins + breaks

DAY TWO ~ Earby to Wigan = 50.7 miles / 2100 feet ascent / 2500 feet descent / 6:20 hours:mins + breaks

DAY THREE ~ Wigan to Liverpool = 37.9 miles / 650 feet ascent / 700 feet descent / 4:44 h:m + breaks

Based on a blanket 8mph

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Costings ~ an INCREDIBLE £101pp: this includes train fares/accommodation/meals (breakfast, packed lunch, evening meal) … you need to book well in advance to get the best deals.

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Full map details (the route, places to eat, toilets, cycle repair shops, food stores, etc.) and suggested accommodation details are available on request … it’ll cost ya a pint! … VA

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 TIPS & HINTS …

Here are some pointers for anyone considering following in our tyre tracks:

• Cycle – mountain bike/ensure it is well maintained and in good working order/anti-puncture road tyres / comprehensive tool kit/bell … it will get well used!

• Luggage – travel extremely lightly/35-litre rucksacks as opposed to panniers/clothes and gear in separate waterproof bags/first-aid kit

• Duration – we did this in 2 nights & 3 days/you may wish to consider 3 nights & 4 days(?)

• Timing – from May to September/mid-week is strongly advised … although you will have large swathes of the canal to yourself, you will be competing with many walkers in built-up areas (ESP. weekends)  

• Accommodation – range enormously; limited hostels, motels ideal/ensure that your choice has cycle storage facilities

• Direction – I categorically defend my decision to do this east to west/you are probably going to do this in the summer and will be unlucky for strong winds to be a factor/see the above elevation guide (ie a flat ending)/Liverpool’s waterfront makes for a majestic finale

• Navigation – the beauty of this route is that it is extremely easy to follow/you will need, however, to come off the towpath on occasions … there are two tunnels where you will need to go ‘over the top’/there could be sections closed where work on the towpath is being carried out/you will need to exit for your accommodation or for facilities 

• Maps – although we did use an array of gizmos … GPS, IPad and smartphones .. the bedrock of my navigation came from good old RELIABLE paper maps/I used 1:50,000 O/S digital mapping, segregated into 3 sections/in addition, I used 1:10,000 (Streetmap) for locating our accommodation/I have devised a simple and highly effective method of quickly pinpointing your position while travelling on canals (Copyright: ME!!! ???)

BRADFORD BRANCH

History ~ Opened in 1774 to connect Bradford to the Leeds & Liverpool. It thrived for nearly a hundred years, being an important route for exporting goods produced in Bradford. The canal always had problems with its water supply; sources couldn’t provide enough water to keep the locks running. It became highly polluted and was virtually an open sewer! The Bradford Canal peaked in 1910, but trade stopped during WWI, and it was officially closed in 1922.

The Route ~ Very little of the canal remains, as city development has swallowed it up. A small nib at the junction remains intact (used as a winding hole), and an odd, rare remnant is still visible where the branch entered the heart of the city at Eastbrook.

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SPRINGS BRANCH (walked 2017)

History ~ Opened in 1797, this branch runs from the heart of Skipton for half a mile around the back of Skipton Castle to a former stone-loading wharf. Lord Thanet had it built, he lived in Skipton Castle and owned the limestone quarries here. A tramroad brought stone from the quarries to be loaded into boats for the journey down to Leeds.

Walking the Route ~ From the heart of the town, it is possible to walk along the towpath (still navigable by small boats) to the lofty foot of the castle. A sublime stretch of woodland and a climb to the canal’s perimeter. Return is through the bustling market town.

2 miles

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WALTON SUMMIT BRANCH (on the very long “to do” list)

History ~ Opened

Walking The Route ~ Opened

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LEIGH BRANCH (cycled 2015)

History ~ This wasn’t opened until 1820; it connected to the Bridgewater Canal and the capital of cotton … Manchester. The craft could now avoid crossing the Mersey Estuary to travel south.

Cycling The Route ~ A short train journey is required from Manchester to Wigan (£4.20). The route follows the main L&LC line, before branching off to Leigh, where it conveniently meets the Bridgewater and heads back to Manchester’s heart at Castlefield.

The towpath is generally well surfaced, although some original stretches could be prone to mud(?). A short section around Astley Green prohibits cycling (you will have to dismount and negotiate some awkward gates!!!).

22.9 miles / 324′ ascent / 319′ descent / 3:18 hours:mins + breaks

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RUFFORD BRANCH  (cycled 2019)

History ~ From 1740 until the late 18th century, boats wishing to travel from Wigan to Preston did so via the River Douglas. The Rufford Branch of the L&LC, also known as the Lower Douglas Navigation, provided an alternative route for much of the distance. It was opened in 1781, long before the mainline was completed in 1816.

Cycling The Route ~ As this is a circular route, you can use a car to get to the start/finish point. This tranquil route is more interesting than spectacular, slicing through the flat, fertile Lancashire Coastal Plain.

The outward journey ends as canal meets river and it’s cycle-unfriendly thereafter. This would only suit the driest conditions, as it can be susceptible to thick mud. The inward journey mixes road, country lane and nature reserve paths. 

16.3 miles / 256′ ascent & descent / 2:43 hours:mins + breaks

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CLARKE’S BASIN & ELDONIAN VILLAGE (walked 2019)

History ~ The original terminus of the L&LC was at Clarke’s Basin (around Old Hall Street in Liverpool). Built in 1792 and closed in 1886 (to accommodate railway expansion, it was the canal’s closest link to the dock system until the Stanley Dock branch was built in 1846. Cargo had to be transshipped from boat to waggon, then taken to the docks. It was realigned and moved slightly east to Pall Mall.

In 1978, a local housing group from Eldonian Street were told they had to be re-housed, and the community split up. They protested, and the Eldonian Village plan was created. The area was cleared, and the canal was shortened yet further. The demolition of the Tate & Lyle sugar refinery marked the end of the canal as an industrial feature.

WalkingThe Route ~ Although this officially starts at the point where we entered Liverpool at the Stanley Docks flight of locks, you can conveniently pick up the route anywhere.

Very little of the original canal exists beyond Eldonia, and the present surroundings are somewhat saddening to the eye, but small reminders from the past can be seen, and a great sense of its historic course can be gleaned.

4.5 miles

 

Our 2025 revisit, a fresh perspective …

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DAY ONE ~ Leeds to Gargrave = 34.7 miles / 1276 feet ascent / 993 feet descent / 4:20 hours:mins + breaks (blanket 8mph)

This is as good a canal-side cycle ride as it gets! Towpath maintenance and upgrading must be akin to “painting the Forth Bridge”; full credit to all concerned for making this section a joyous experience … affording a silky traverse through Yorkshire to the outskirts of Lancashire.

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DAY TWO ~ Gargrave to Wigan = 58.0 miles / 2294 feet ascent / 2560 feet ascent / 8:03 hours:mins + breaks (8mph and 4mph sections)

In contrast, the towpath on this day ranges from adequate to downright woeful! This is a long and demanding day. The sections between Bank Newton and West Marton (near the start) and again between Hapton and Enfield (Clayton-le-Moors) are extremely challenging to cycle. I have devised road/lane diversions to compensate. Also, be aware it’s a long day, and facilities are very limited … ensure you allow plenty of time and pack provisions. Consider doing this in two days.

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DAY THREE ~ Wigan to Liverpool = 38.3 miles / 629 feet ascent / 660 feet descent / 5:02 hours:mins (8mph and 6mph sections)

A flying start right up to Parbold should ease you into the day nicely. After that, all the way to the outskirts of Liverpool at Maghull, the route becomes very rural, and the towpath is narrow and demanding … full concentration is required. Your reward is a magnificent finale all the way to Liverpool’s waterfront and the ‘steps’ of the Liver Building!

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• Cycle – all things considered, hybrid bike for three days and mountain bike for four days. NOTE *** in no way whatsoever, by opting for a mountain bike, am I suggesting that anyone should cycle the two problematic sections at any time other than the driest periods … all this will do is exacerbate the situation by churning up the ground further! USE the road alternatives (regardless of bike) in wet conditions.
• Luggage – as above plus phone/gizmo chargers.
• Duration – for three days = Gargrave > Wigan, for four days = Gargrave > Burnley > Wigan. You may also wish to consider an extra day at the end in Liverpool(?).
• Timing – this time around, we started on a Sunday. Although towpath activity increased, the journey to Leeds was quieter, and canal-side facilities were likely to be open.
• Accommodation – although we have no affiliation with Premier Inns, we used them throughout (using the ‘ you know what you are getting’ logic). They suited all our needs and requirements and afforded us uniformity and consistency. Cycle storage is allowed in your bedroom, but this might not apply to e-bikes (fire hazard).
• Direction – as above.
• Navigation – as above, plus I reiterate that you will need to come off the canal at some point … for accommodation, refreshments, cycle repairs or medical emergencies (resources can be pinpointed on your smartphone). You can research towpath closures in advance on the Canal & River Trust website; diversions will be displayed at the point of closure, but it is best to plan ahead from the comfort of your home. You won’t know about sudden closures … so expect the unexpected on the canals!
• Maps – as above plus … this is the big game-changer! Advances in technology now dispense with the need for awkward paper maps. Different gadgets for different people, but this is what I use … a dedicated heavy-duty smartphone > digital mapping (Memory-Map) > a variety of OS scales > 1:50k is adequate for the mainstay > 1:25k for detail if required > 1:10k ‘Streetmap’ for town navigation. Attached to a holder on my handlebar, I could easily see where we were along the section … 1/4 way, 1/2 way, etc. Armed with this, I could tackle any detour (ensure you are fully charged before each journey and take a battery bank as backup).
• Trains – cycle storage on trains ranges from inadequate to inadequate, and different operators have different rules to contend with (TransPennine Express is the likeliest). Tickets, train times and platform information are far easier to access nowadays, again turning to smartphone technology to assist (we used the ‘Trainline’ app). You may need to obtain a reservation ticket (free) for your cycle (pick up at a ticket machine at the station).
• Towpaths – as discussed. I have put maps of my suggested two main road alternatives (in green) below …

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The number in the yellow box indicates the bridge exit point, they are also on all relevant exits … a very useful navigation tool!

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